At the end of last summer, Rwanda reopened their borders to leisure travel, including to Americans. A colleague, Kelly of Well Traveled Living, and I were daydreaming about returning to Africa and experiential, meaningful travel. It seemed so much of what was “open” to us at the time were beach destinations. And while I love the Caribbean as much as the next girl, I was yearning to fuel my curiosity and truly get to know the history and culture of a new country. We threw out the idea of Rwanda trip, thought “if only,” and went on with our days.
Well that conversation stuck with me. I couldn’t stop considering if it was the right time for me to travel to Rwanda. Affectionately known as “The Land of a Thousand Hills,” Rwanda has been top of my list both personally and professionally for some time now. Kelly and I revived our conversation about Rwanda in November and after discussing the parameters of a potential trip, we decided to jump right in!
Why Travel Now?
Some people may say I am crazy for traveling half way around the world during the current travel climate. I completely understand that each and every person has a different opinion on travel and risk tolerance right now. I felt this was the right time for me personally for a few reasons:
Rwanda has been open with strict Covid policies in place for a few months - more info on all the Covid testing protocols to come later in this post.
I was going to a place with wide open spaces. After spending the last year in a big city, I was absolutely craving remote destinations (hello social distancing!).
With so few people traveling right now, I assumed the flights wouldn’t be crowded and I was right. All my flights were close to empty.
Rwanda had the space! Normally this is a trip that needs to be booked a year or more in advance but availability was extremely easy to find.
The affect the global pandemic has had on tourism is devastating and especially so for countries that rely so heavily on tourism. Tourism is the #1 industry in Rwanda, followed by agriculture. I felt that traveling to Rwanda would have a positive impact on their economy and in the lives of so many hospitality professionals. During my trip I truly felt that my investment was having a positive impact.
I traveled responsibly. I wore my mask; I washed my hands; I took the necessary Covid tests and followed all governments’ protocols.
This is my career. I believe that I need to be prepared to advise my traveling clients on what to expect when they get back out there and there is no better way to do that than by personally putting my feet on the ground.
Travel feeds my soul. After a difficult year professionally due to the pandemic, I needed to revitalize my spirit and Rwanda did just that. I really do hope to return someday.
Last Minute Changes Prior to Depature
After 2 months organizing our trip, we finally made it happen. I can’t stress enough that while travel is possible right now, there are extra requirements in place and it does require an open mind and flexibility. We booked flights on KLM from LAX to Kigali through Amsterdam. About 2 weeks before our departure, The Netherlands announced we would need a negative COVID test taken within 72 hours of arriving in Amsterdam and this applied to transit passengers like us - we had just a 1 hour layover. It was a tight window but we already needed a negative COVID test taken within 120 hours (5 days) of our first departure flight as a requirement to enter Rwanda. We departed on a Sunday, which meant we arrived in Amsterdam on a Monday. In order to meet the restrictions, we both test Friday morning/afternoon and used this test to meet entry requirements for both The Netherlands and Rwanda.
The big surprise that threw us for a loop happened just 2 days before we left. The Netherlands added another restriction to enter: a negative rapid test taken within 4 hours of boarding our flight. I have to admit that I panicked for about 1 minute assuming that we couldn't make this happen. Either our trip wouldn't happen or we’d have to completely change airlines. Luckily, we found that LAX not only had PCR testing but also rapid testing on site. We booked appointments for 3.5 hours before our flights - crisis averted! We also emailed our partners in Rwanda to ensure rapid testing was available in Kigali so we could meet this requirement on our return home as well.
Once we left LAX, the international travel was extremely easy. Each of our flights were practically empty - I booked a premium economy seat and had the entire row to myself on all legs of my itinerary going to Rwanda and coming home.
Welcome to Kigali!
A requirement for travel to Rwanda is to be tested on arrival and then to quarantine for up to 24 hours in your hotel room. When we deplaned, a representative was waiting for us who then escorted us to a private waiting room where Kelly and I were tested seamlessly. All other travelers waited in line to be tested at various booths set up in the arrivals lounge. It was so nice to be whisked through to a private area to be tested and it took all of 5 minutes - this is something I would arrange for all clients while this requirement still exists. We then checked into The Serena Kigali Hotel. Serena Kigali is definitely more of a business hotel but it was a perfect, economical place to start our stay. The staff was wonderful and it was top notch service. We had no idea what time the following day we would get our test results and be allowed to exit our hotel room so we didn't plan anything for the following day. I was awake at 5am due to jet lag and we already had our results back; however, I’ve spoken to other agents that have visited recently and they didn’t get results until closer to noon. Because there’s no exact time, I would still recommend not planning anything the next day and to spend 2 nights in Kigali on arrival.
Volcanoes National Park: Gorilla Trekking
Volcanoes National Park is what Rwanda is famous for. The park sits on the border of Rwanda, The Congo and Uganda. Each country has their own name for their section of the park. This is the only place in the world where mountain gorillas live and so you can trek gorillas in any of these 3 countries.
Pre-covid, in Rwanda there were 96 gorilla permits sold per day with only 8 visitors per trekking group. Now there are just 6 visitors per trekking group due to COVID. In a normal world, permits sell out a year or more in advance so I highly recommend booking your trip early - 2022 and 2023 will be here before you know it! If you are hoping to travel in the next few months, lodge space and gorilla permits are available - this is one of the reasons Kelly and I booked our trip! Space and availability was super easy to find. In fact, outside of Kigali, we had each lodge entirely to ourselves with the exception of 1 night. While we loved the exclusively of our stays and getting to know the staff at each property so well, it’s also extremely sad to see hotels sitting empty, which affects local employment and the tourism industry as a whole.
Gorilla permits are $1500/person/trek. It’s an investment but the cost of the permits goes directly toward protecting the gorillas and to better the surrounding communities. On our drive to the start of our trek, we passed by a beautiful school that was financed from permit proceeds.
**If you travel during low season (like I did!), and you spend at least 3 nights at a second national park in Rwanda, you can access a 30% discount for the permits. For anyone interested in seeing more of Rwanda than just the gorillas, this is a no brainer!
Gorilla trekking is easily the most amazing thing I have ever had the privilege of experiencing. Each gorilla trek is very different from another because it does depend on weather and which of the gorilla families you trek to. Our trek was shorter than I expected - about 30 minutes - but the forest was very dense, which added an extra layer of difficulty and adventure to our trek
It’s actually very easy to know where each gorilla family is. Our group of 4 trekkers had 1 guide and we each hired a porter, which I highly recommend. It costs $10 USD to hire a porter; they carry your water and backpack but they can also help you navigate the hike/vegetation if needed. Our guide was in constant contact with trackers who had already found our gorilla family. Each evening, gorillas create a nest where they sleep. The trackers see where the nests are, hike down the mountain for a good night’s sleep, then return the next morning to find the gorillas at or near their nest. Gorillas make new nests each night so each day’s hike can be different!
I was surprised that I did not find the experience frightening. My heart was racing during the first few minutes visiting the gorillas but after settling in, I truly found the experience to be mesmerizing. Gorillas share 97% of our DNA - they are so humanlike but it’s also incredible to see how much of a difference that 3% makes. You’re allowed to spend 1 hour with the gorillas. We’ve entered their home so the rule is to not disturb them. I spent my hour with the Amahoro Family and now you get to virtually meet them…
Volcanoes National Park: Golden Monkey Trekking
The Golden Monkeys were such a fun surprise! Golden Monkeys are a lot harder to find than gorillas because they move around so much and they do not nest at night. Our trackers had trouble finding them so our day was a lot longer than the gorilla trekking day. Again, each trek is so different so my experience may very well be different than yours. The family we spent an hour with had approximately 100 members - they were running everywhere and jumping from tree to tree. They personally made me a bit anxious because they were everywhere but it was still very fun!
Golden Monkey permits are $100 USD/person/day.
Volcanoes National Park: Where to Stay
Singita Kwitonda - this is where we started our trip. Singita, not just in Rwanda but also throughout Africa, is the best of the best. This property opened at the end of 2019 so everything is shiny and new. It has an amazing sense of place with unbeatable views of the dormant volcanoes that give Volcanoes National Park it’s name. Don’t miss a wine tasting with the sommelier James, a dip in your private plunge pool after your morning trek, and an amazing in-room massage. Kwitonda House - this is a private 4 bedroom home at Singita equipped with a chef’s kitchen, movie theatre, gym, plunge pool in every room, and large outdoor spaces. This is any multigen family or group of friends’ dream!
Bisate - if you are looking for a true African lodge experience, Bisate has your name all over it. The design is like no other as they are built to emulate a gorillas’s nest; It’s the most intimate option in Volcanoes National Park with just 6 standalone nests. Each suite is situated along a hillside - you can hear school children done below running to and from school.
One&Only Gorilla’s Nest - someone described this as the “Rolls-Royce” of Rwanda and after personally experiencing it, I see why. This resort-style property has the most amenities of all of the properties - a large gym, yoga deck, spa, communal pool, produce garden, and the Jack Hanna cottage used for meals, but it also has a pool table and board games. I think this property is wonderful for families or larger groups.
Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge - this hotel is meant to feel like you are checking into your friend’s quaint cottage. Each suite is a standalone cottage - you can’t see any other from your suite’s terrace so it’s definitely very private.
Bishop’s House - Rwanda is an exclusive, high-end destination. The hotel and lodge options are an investment and include all meals, drinks and some experiences. For those looking for a lovely option at a more cost effective price point, I recommend Bishop’s House in the nearest city of Musanze.
Singita Kwitonda
Bisate
One&Only Gorilla’s Nest
Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge
Frequently Asked Questions
Can you remind me what the testing requirements are for Rwanda?
Negative PCR Covid test taken within 120 hours of your first flight departing
Upon arrival, you will be tested again and required to quarantine in your hotel room until your results come back, which will be within 24 hours. Flight arrival in the evening so this felt doable since you go to your hotel and head to bed first thing.
For every national park you enter, a negative PCR Covid test is required within 72 hours of entering. My entry test was valid for Volcanoes National Park - I was also tested at Singita in Volcanoes National Park so I could use that test to enter the next national park. These logistics will be set up my myself and my suppliers to make the process extremely seamless.
A negative Covid test taken with 72 hours of your departing flight is required. I also used these tests results to reenter the US.
Each test cost me $50, plus an additional $20 for the doctor to come to each lodge. Results were returned within 24-48 hours and uploaded to my personal portal.
Rwanda perhaps has the most strict testing requirements I’ve seen announced from any one destination so don’t let this overwhelm you! While most destinations require a test before your first flight, and the CDC now requires a test to reenter the US, many countries only require those 2 tests!
**Please note this is accurate as of the time of publishing this post and are subject to change. I also recommend double checking requirements with the State Department and local tourism boards.
In addition to the testing requirements, were there any new requirements to travel?
There was some additional paperwork required from KLM, The Netherlands and Rwanda but it was easy. Additionally, masks are required in Rwanda and on all flights.
How many gorilla treks did you do?
I only did one trek due to time and budget constraints. I’ve been told to plan for 2 treks and I now understand why. It’s my one regret from my trip. For starters, the hour flew by! I was not ready to leave. Additionally, during each trek you are assigned to a different family and just like people, each gorilla has a different personality. We had a lot of baby interaction - the youngest was 6 months old - but our silverback was hidden from the neck down by vegetation or was sleeping. I would go back to get more interaction from a silverback.
Is gorilla trekking safe?
Incredibly safe. Before “tourists” can be introduced to a gorilla family, the family is habituated for at least a decade so they are used to seeing people. Additionally, visitors are required to keep their distance from the gorillas since they are wild animals and we are in their home. Lastly, the trackers and guides with us spend each and every day with these gorillas. They know them by name; they know which are the curious ones that will get close to us. They know if and when a silverback is agitated. The guide is there to teach us and protect us - in doing so, we learned not to make eye contact with the silverback and specific sounds to make to show we were friends. But mostly, we sat peacefully and watched them eat, sleep and be! It was pure magic. I highly recommend watching the movie “Gorillas in the Mist” about Diane Fossey prior to gorilla trekking to give you a better understanding of what you will experience.
Interested in traveling to Rwanda in the future?
Please complete the “New Trip Inquiry” form to inquire! I can’t wait to help you plan a trip to this incredible destination - and remember, it’s not too early to plan for 2022 or 2023 if you aren’t quite ready to travel yet.